Postcards from the Bleeding Edge
Wednesday, June 24, 2009

  Big waves, bad knees

I have reached the point where my knees are creaking, and back popping, and arms hurting, everytime I go out. My youth is a distant memory... but yesterday was awesome....

After 4 hours of surfing, I got into an intense backside wave, and the board and fins slammed up against my back as the wave took me over the falls, leaving a sizeable set of bruises. First real injury I've had this year except for scrapes and scratches. It could have been much worse.

My knees, however, are shot. My right knee tends to start buckling within an hour, and I'm consistently missing standing up even on easy waves. But with waves this good, if I can't surf, I'll boogie board, and if I can't boogie board, I'll swim, and if I can't swim... hell, I'll drown, but drown happy.

Today, I am stretching and hoping to summon the energy to go out again. The water temperature is perfect, and so is the weather!

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Comments:
Wow!

Very nice.

Go brother, there'll be plenty of time to nurse all them aches and pains when yer dead.
 
With some reflection, Boogie boarding sounds good.
 
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