Postcards from the Bleeding Edge
Wednesday, October 08, 2003

  Now is the time for all good men...

to go surfing!

Today's waves were at 7+ feet. Facing my first one I got the longest, most elegant ride I'd had ever since I got the shorter stick. I moaned all summer about it being too long - 7'4" is too big to rip around 2-3 foot swells... but 7 foot tall perfect sets rolling in the board came alive underneath me. There was a magnificent sunset on the one side of Le Secre't surfing hole, and a perfect moon rising out of the reflected sunset on the other side... wonderful. I'm so tired I can hardly lift my arms.



 
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David Täht writes about politics, space, copyright, the internet, audio software, operating systems and surfing.


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